Alton to the Altons

 Ian Fleming describes his 50+ mile walk from Alton (Hampshire) to the Altons (Wiltshire)

The background

There are seven places called Alton in England, of which Alton in Hampshire is by far the largest. The others are all villages: Alton in Staffordshire, known mainly for its proximity to Alton Towers; a small village called Alton near Clay Cross in Derbyshire; a deserted village named Alton in Leicestershire, Alton Pancras in Dorset and two small villages, Alton Barnes and Alton Priors, in the Vale of Pewsey in Wiltshire. Having previously walked in the Vale of Pewsey and up on the wonderful downland to the north, I became interested in the idea of walking from Alton to these two villages, which, together with nearby Honeystreet on the Kennet and Avon Canal, form the focus of the Wiltshire parish of Honeystreet and Altons. Why? No particular reason, except that it seemed an interesting project. I did initially wonder whether the walk might be a possible Walking Festival walk (in sections), but the lack of suitable public transport ruled that out.

Alton Barnes and Alton Priors are so small that they only consist of a few houses and farms, grouped around two ancient churches about a quarter of a mile apart. The churches date back to Saxon times and are linked across the quiet fields by a stone pathway, constructed, so the story goes, by parishioners back in the 19^th century so that the rector, preaching in both churches, wouldn’t get his cassock wet!

Honeystreet is a very slightly more lively place, with a wharf on the canal and buildings which once housed a thriving wooden barge building business. These buildings are now partly occupied by an excellent cafe, a farm shop, a gift shop and an exhibition on crop circles. Just across the canal is the Barge Inn, a popular public house much patronised by boaters and walkers.

The plan

I decided to book accommodation in the George Inn in St Mary Bourne for the end of the first day’s walk, and in the Barge Inn in Honeystreet at the end of the walk These two pubs turned out to be excellent places to stay and both provided delicious evening meals. Having completed the walk and stayed in the Barge, I then planned to wander around the two Altons before walking east along the Kennet and Avon Canal to reach Pewsey station, where I could catch a train to Reading, then onwards to Basingstoke and a bus back to Alton

I spent some time trying to find a viable route to St Mary Bourne which would avoid Overton, crossing the M3 near East Stratton, but I eventually reverted to the route that we had used in previous Walking Festivals. This had the advantage that much of the route was familiar territory, but the disadvantage that the first day’s walk was quite long, with the final section being along lanes, rather than paths.

Day 1: Wednesday Oct 8^th

The weather forecast promised two days of calm and bright conditions: ideal walking weather. I set out from home at 8am and walked across to Ackender Wood, then on to Beech Recreation Ground and Thedden Grange, where I took the path heading across fields to join Tinkers Lane. A mainly uphill trudge brought me to Bentworth and then it was on across a succession of fields and along a bridleway to Bradley.

The next part of the walk was hilly. Firstly, a stiff climb up the lane north of Bradlley, then up to Moundsmere Manor and, after a descent towards Berrydown, a climb up Windmill Hill and then descent towards Nutley. For some reason, the grassy surface of this trackway had been scraped away, making walking rather uncomfortable. Crossing the B3046 road at Nutley, another, gentler, climb followed past Nutley Wood and on to meet the lane into the village of Dummer, where I paused for lunch at 12.30, with about 14 miles walked. Beyond Dummer I followed the lane which passed under the M3 and then headed northwest on another lane to North Waltham.

Beyond North Waltham I followed the well-defined path to Steventon and, after crossing the railway, on to Ashe, finally emerged onto a road just south of Overton; I walked down into Overton and had a rest on a seat for a few minutes; it was now just before 3pm and I had walked 20 miles. I now faced a climb to reach the line of the Holloway, which runs along the ridge north of Overton and west towards Whitchurch. It was a tedious trudge uphill, followed by a monotonous wooded trackway, but I finally emerged onto a minor lane with views across the rolling countryside and felt that the end of the day’s walk might really be in sight! Unfortunately, the quiet minor lanes which I planned to follow over to St Mary Bourne were now clogged with impatient homegoing traffic and so the last 3 miles of the walk were rather an ordeal. My feet were sore, and I was feeling very tired; just imagine the willpower it took for me to turn down the offer of a lift into the village from a kind passing motorist!

As darkness started to descend, I finally walked into the outskirts of St Mary Bourne and entered the George Inn at 18.15, having walked 29.5 miles. I had a warm welcome, was shown to my room and soon, after a hot shower and a bit of a sort out, I was tucking into a hearty evening meal and a pint to celebrate the end of Day 1!

Day 2: Thursday Oct 9^th

After a relaxing sleep I woke at 6 and remembered that the George doesn’t provide breakfast - the only drawback about the place! I had been told about a cafe opposite, but it didn’t open until after 8 and I wanted to get going, so I set off, hoping that my collection of apples, bars and a pork pie would suffice. At least I had enjoyed a decent coffee, as the pub provided coffee bags in the rooms.

I walked north up the village street and turned off near the school, following the Test Way out of the village. The path climbed gently and gave a good view of the lovely valley of the Bourne Stream in the sunshine. Soon I turned west off the Test Way and followed a lovely trackway which soon turned northwest and ran along the edge of majestic woods. I came across four deer and saw lots of interesting fungi in the woods before crossing the A343 and continuing past a deserted farm to the isolated village of Wildhern, where I paused for water and a snack. After Wildhern I turned northwest, following the line of a Roman Road, now a quiet trackway fringed with trees. This was originally the route from Venta Belgarum (Winchester) to Dorchester on Thames.

After a mile or two I turned west off the Roman line and headed uphill into the isolated village of Tangley, then across fields and along a lane to reach Chute Cadley, the easternmost of the four villages called Chute. Chute Cadley was delightful, an attractive group of cottages set in a wooded hollow in the hills. I took a track on to Chute Standen and then lane walked to the main village, Upper Chute, where I arrived at about 11.30. I sat on a bench overlooking the seemingly deserted village and had a snack.

Between Upper Chute and Collingbourne Ducis, where my route would cross the A338, lay the huge expanse of Collingbourne Woods. There were several possible routes, none exactly direct. I opted to head downhill and through Coldridge Wood, eventually joining a path running along the southwestern edge of the main Collingbourne Wood and joining a lane a mile east of Collingbourne Ducis. All this took some time, as the initially firm track soon deteriorated into a narrow winding path, and route finding caused a few problems. I was becoming rather fed up with the woods when I met a couple of women walking dogs heading towards me, who cheerfully asked me if I was on my way to the pub. It turned out that The Shears pub was on my route, just where I joined a lane. Although I was a bit concerned about my relatively slow going, I couldn’t resist a snack and a pint….and the chance to loosen my boots!

It was a nice pub, but I didn’t stop very long, and it was well past 1.30pm when I started walking into Collingbourne Ducis. Once through the village, the reality of the next part of the walk dawned on me: road walking, initially on minor roads, which were quiet, but then, after Everleigh, on the busier A342 Upavon Road. The problem for walkers west of Collingbourne Ducis is the Army; most of the countryside around Everleigh has restricted access. Although I had spotted a few options to follow longer tracks and still make general progress westwards, time was not on my side, so I decided to grit my teeth and walk along the A342. Trying to be positive, there were a few redeeming features of the next hour’s walk: traffic was fairly light, the views across the elevated plateau were lovely and the sun was still shining!

Eventually I arrived at the point where a green lane left the road and headed towards Manningford, in the Vale of Pewsey and only a mile or so south of the Kennet and Avon Canal. I avoided a stark new Army track, followed the green lane and soon had a lovely view ahead of the Pewsey Downs. A path headed off downhill, descending steeply, and I was soon walking northwest on a farm track leading directly to Manningford Bruce.

The light was starting to fade as I walked through Manningford Bruce and across the railway. I finally reached the canal at Cocklebury Farm (Ladies Bridge) and headed west along the towpath for 2 miles, eventually reaching the bridge at Honeystreet at 18.40. Five more minutes brought me to the Barge Inn, lying alongside the canal. I had walked 23.5 miles, meaning the total from Alton was 53 miles.

Entering the bar of the Barge was rather like entering a scene in a Thomas Hardy novel! The place was full of people, with a raucous but good-natured shouting match taking place across the bar. Eventually I was spotted by one of the staff, who showed m to my room. A little later, calm having returned to the bar, I enjoyed a superb cooked meal before returning to my room for a hot bath and a welcome sleep!

Day 3: Friday Oct 10^th

The cooked breakfast provided by the Barge was excellent! I left the pub at 9 and walked along the canal to the bridge, then up to the two Alton villages. Alton Barnes is about a quarter of a mile north of Honeystreet. Its ancient church, probably the more attractive of the two, was covered in scaffolding, as roofing repairs were under way. I set off across the field on the stone path to Alton Priors, no more than a quarter of a mile away. The stone path, which I mentioned at the start of this account, has attractive timber ‘turnstiles’ where it crosses a stream. Alton Priors churchyard has a venerable yew tree. Apart from the interiors of both churches, that’s about the sum of the attractions of the two villages! However, the view across the fields northwards to the steep slopes of the Pewsey Downs is breathtaking, beckoning any visitor to return and sample their delights!

I paused for a coffee in Honeychurch and then set off eastwards along the canal to walk the 4 miles to Pewsey Wharf, from which it’s just half a mile along the A345 to Pewsey Station and a train to Reading and thence Basingstoke.

Reflections

Having completed this walk, how do I feel about it? Would I recommend the walk?

Well, I’m glad I have done it, because, having got to know the Pewsey Downs and Vale a little earlier this year, I really liked the idea of linking or Alton with the two Altons in the Vale just by walking out of my house. Admittedly, a few years ago I would probably have wild camped, rather than stay in hostelries, but, this time, two comfortable nights were very welcome!

My walking route could certainly be improved, probably by avoiding Whitchurch to the south and missing out Overton and that tedious finish to Day 1. On Day 2, I loved the country from St Mary Bourne to Upper Chute but road bashing west of Collingbourne Ducis was tedious in the extreme, so it would be much better to find an off-road route for the last 10-12 miles.

I will certainly be back in the Vale of Pewsey again, as the hills to the north of the Vale offer superb walking and the villages of the Vales are tranquil and unspoilt.

How about walking to another Alton? Well, possibly to the Dorset one, which would be about 90 miles or so, but as for the rest, I don’t think so. It’s well over 130 miles to Alton, Staffs and around 180 to Alton, Derbyshire – and those are just estimated distances for road travel.

Walking to the Altons meant (mostly) passing through lovely countryside and when I had finished the walk, I felt pleased to have completed a satisfactory personal challenge!